New Orleans - Day Three & Four

We woke up late on day three and quickly got dressed to leave for breakfast. I was excited to try Surrey's Café & Juice Bar and was kinda glad it was late in the morning, as most of the crowd should be finished and on to other things. We began walking up Poydras Street to St. Charles Avenue hoping to catch the trolley. The previous night we had been stranded after dinner in the French Quarter for 45 min waiting for the trolley to take us back to the hotel to change for drinks. We were hoping not for a repeat. We enjoyed the stroll up the main road and stopped at the corner. No trolley. We decided to walk down St. Charles and just hop on the trolley once it catches up.


We made it five blocks to Lee Circle - still no trolley. We climbed up the steps on Lee Circle to take some photos. As soon as we had made it to the top - three trolleys rolled on by. Sigh. We began our walk again on St. Charles and had to trek the entire fifteen or so block hike to brunch.


We approached the café and unfortunately found a large group of people outside waiting to be seated. We added our name to the list and just stared at the other houses for the next 40 min trying to catch our breath from the walk over. I was under the false impression the café was entirely organic, which was why I chose to try it. They do offer freshly squeezed organic juices, but it's $5 a glass. I just couldn't bring myself to order a glass of $5 orange juice when I live in Florida and have a counter full of organic oranges that I can squeeze to drink to my heart's content. I did, however, struggle to choose what to have for breakfast, as their items all sounded delicious. I settled on the Huevos Rancheros, while Guy ordered the Cinnamon French Toast. The interior was brightly painted and each table was hand made with interesting pictures and magazine cut-outs. I dubbed our table the "Jesus Table", since old Biblical comics had been pasted together with quotes and cut-outs of the universe. The seating area was also on a lower level than the kitchen, which had old windows you could look up into to see what the cooks were doing. Breakfast arrived quicker than anticipated and we dove right in.


Guy's french toast was made with thick pieces of french bread, soaked through with egg, milk, and cinnamon, then toasted just right with a slight crust on the outside, but warm and soft on the inside. He once again chose well, unlike myself.


The Huevos Racheros sounded and looked delicious, with corn tortillas smothered with black beans, eggs, cheese, pico de gallo, and molé sauce; but, it had no flavor - at all. I only ate what was on my plate because I was so ravenous and cranky from the walk over, I dared not protest, afraid of what I might say. The hand made the corn tortillas were bland and just dense, instead of crispy. The eggs tasted store bought, as I later discovered you needed to ask for organic eggs (which is when I discovered the entire menu was not organic). The rest of the items could also just be described as bland. Of course, any meal smothered in sugar is hard to get wrong, but I wanted something healthy to get me through walking the rest of the day (since the trolley system was "unreliable" at best). We paid for our meal (after withdrawing cash from the ATM conveniently located next to the back tables where people are eating since the restaurant only accepts cash) and decided to change our plans since our day was not going so smoothly.

We had originally decided to visit a few of the famous cemeteries and take photographs of the unusual above ground burial plots. However, with the way our day was turning out, we sadly decided to nix the cemeteries and just meander through the Garden District. I had a list of the 5 most famous historical houses of the Garden District (which is debatable most likely), so we took off toward Coliseum Street.


Without any trouble, we located the Goodrich-Stanley House at 1729 Coliseum Street. The house was once owned by William Goodrich, a local New Orleans jeweler in the 1860s. He sold the house in 1866 to Henry Hope Stanley, a wealthy British cotton merchant. It was this family who adopted John Rowlands, aka Sir Henry Morton Stanley, who later became a journalist and discovered Dr. Livingston in the African jungle.


We happened upon some more trouble by not being able to confirm which house was the Grace King House. We even asked a mailman, whom we had a bad feeling about, as he tried to send us into the bad part of town and was no help at all. We used our phones to look up photographs to confirm which house was hers online. The house is located at 1749 Coliseum Street (just two houses to the left of the Goodrich-Stanley House as it turns out), but does not have any markings to confirm the historical home. Grace King is a famous nineteenth-century author of New Orleans, who courted other famous literary giants of her time in this home.


We strolled over to 1342 First Street. This area of New Orleans was peaceful. The historic houses gave the essence of walking back through time. Although it doesn't compare to Charleston or Savannah, the Garden District has an aura of old Southern charm.



Nearly next door is the famous Rosegate House at 1239 First Street, the previous residence of the author Anne Rice. This house had the most people stopped outside for a tour and history lesson.


We last visited the Colonel Short House at 1448 Fourth Street, with its famous cornstalk iron fence. The Union Colonel and his wife modeled the home after their memories of Kentucky, since his wife was homesick. This house also was not marked, and we asked a neighbor doing yard work which house was 1448. Humorously enough, he scratched his head and did a circle before Guy spotted which house it was. We explained to the man why we were taking photos, and he had no idea the house had such history behind it, even though he had lived next door for quite some time.

We were too tired for lunch, and had eaten breakfast so late, so we decided to take a short ferry ride before resting for dinner. We couldn't take anymore walking for the moment, so we stopped at St. Charles to wait for a trolley. The universe was kind at that moment as a trolley showed up in 10 min to take us back to Canal Street. We made it to the bottom and hopped onto a ferry within minutes. The ferry, it seems, sticks to its posted schedule, unlike the trolley system. We rode across the great Mississippi River on the top deck since they had seats.


Once on the other side, we walked through the quaint neighborhood to the Rosetree glass shop, which was closed. With nothing else to do on the West Bank, we soon found ourselves back on the ferry. This time we rode standing on the lower deck in the open air.


Passengers couldn't help but wave at the steamboat passing by.

After a much needed rest, we dressed up and marched back out into the cold night. After getting lost attempting to find a shortcut to a trolley, we finally found St. Charles and just had to shiver for 30 min until one showed up. Our feet just couldn't take anymore long walks. After climbing aboard the trolley, we swiftly arrived at our dinner destination and were surprised by the restaurant's small size. Once we stepped inside we realized it wasn't a restaurant - it was a bar.


The Delachaise has received rave reviews online, and for good reason. This is a local favorite as they have an endless wall full of every wine, liqueur, and beer one could possibly want. They also have professional chefs on hand for anyone wanting a nice nibble during their leisurely drinks. However, this is one local favorite that should remain for locals. We were quite out of place. A nice couple informed us that it was a seat yourself establishment and to put all orders in at the bar. We glanced over the menu and settled on our dinner selections. I elbowed my way through the crowd and placed our order, while Guy scored better seats for us in a quiet corner. Since the crowd wasn't there for the food, our meals arrived in a very short time. I went with a Grilled Cheese Annabella with Pommes Frites.


The grilled cheese was oozing with cheesy goodness, both asiago and fiore sardo, but had a peculiar spread on the toasted bread.


The pommes frites were fried in duck fat and served with two dipping sauces; one was a malt vinegar aioli, which I preferred, and the other spicy satay, which failed to dance on my palate as the peanut flavor didn't meld with the potatoes.


Guy again chose the better meal with Flank Steak Bruchetta - an open faced sandwich dripping with flavor, covered with peruvian garlic sauce and shaved aged manchego on a ciabatta crostini. We gulped down our dinner and had enough energy to saunter over to our dessert destination.


Sucré is a diamond in the rough. The shop glows with a warm light and bright colors. It was full of people during our brief stay. They offer rows of gelato, truffles, and specialty desserts.


Guy quickly spotted mint chocolate gelato and ordered a healthy scoop. It was refreshing to see a smile return to his face after a long day. I decided to try their pumpkin cheesecake.


The top layer was a unique gelatin applesauce which was delicious. The middle layer was a delicate, creamy pumpkin cheesecake. But the third layer was a strange tasting crust, what it contained I'm not sure. Since I left so much of the dessert on my plate, and because I had had such a rough day, I didn't hesitate to go for a small bowl of gelato myself.


I chose the pistachio since it's one of my favorite dessert flavors. The smooth gelato melted in my mouth and even contained whole pistachio pieces, which was a nice crunchy bonus.

After a satisfying dessert experience, we were ready to end our difficult day. We had to wait another 45 min for the trolley to pick us up, but it was better than walking at that point.

New Orleans - Day Four

After a much needed deep sleep, we awoke on the fourth morning ready to head home. We stopped downstairs in the Riverwalk mall for another round of café au lait and beignets from a sister shop of Café Du Monde. We sat at a nice table next to a wall of windows and quietly ate our breakfast while looking out onto the lightly fogged riverfront.

The checkout at the hotel was also nicely uneventful and we rolled onto I10 to arrive back home. I had missed my dog terribly, as we had not been separated for more than 12 hours since I first brought her home in August.

It seemed to take longer to get home, but we were both eager to end the underwhelming trip. We didn't have high expectations for New Orleans, but it still was a disappointment. We had never been exposed to so much cigarette smoke and exhaust fumes in our lives. Even with a full schedule of places to visit, it was let down anyway. It just seems that city is not for us.

We're already planning another vacation to make up for this one, so suggestions are welcome for a relaxing destination in the Southern US!

I'm looking forward to returning to happy recipes, as I do not like remembering negative events.

New Orleans - Day Two

We woke up to a gray sky the next morning which kept a chill in the air. We bundled up and went downstairs to the Riverwalk mall to pick up our trolley passes. Thankfully, already outside was a river trolley waiting to take us to the famous Café Du Monde. We followed the trolley driver's directions and walked along the wall of the French Quarter and found a long line still late in the morning. We stood around for a few moments until Guy spotted an empty, but still dirty, table. We took notice for a few more minutes and no one else seemed to want to sit, so we shimmied past the crowds and sat down. A lady soon appeared and cleared the table while taking our order. We both requested the classic: café au lait and beignets. We were at the original café which is open 24/7 and seems to never slow down. Our food didn't take long to appear and we couldn't wait to dig in.


The au lait had a subtle bite to it, but was still smooth and delightful with the chicory addition. The beignets were big, puffy, warm mounds of goodness. The thick layer of powdered sugar caked to the roof of our mouths when we'd bite into them and melted as we enjoyed the French doughnut. After we enjoyed our breakfast and set out into Jackson Square, we noticed another line on the other side of the café - the line to wait to be seated. Oops...


Even on a cloudy day, Jackson Square was lovely and peaceful. We stood around for a bit just taking it all in.


We glided into the St. Louis Cathedral which was beautiful. The air smelled of faint candles burning and the organ was playing soft music. Everyone inside couldn't take their eyes off the paintings overhead.


We decided to spend our vacation just wandering around the city without worrying about keeping track of time. We walked up and down all the streets of the French Quarter and stopped into any stores which looked interesting. Our first stop was Maskarade, a charming boutique with beautiful designer Mardi Gras and masquerade masks. The shop is very kind and allows visitors to try on the masks and take photos.


After goofing around for a short time, we found ourselves in Pirate's Alley, which I found amusing. I would celebrate everyday as Pirate Day if it were socially acceptable (Arrr!). We entered the famous Faulkner House which has been transformed into a bookstore.


I snuck around to the back gate and snapped a photo of the interior patio since we were the only ones besides the two ladies working up front, and my camera kept making clicking noises. I was afraid they'd be upset, so I hurried back around the corner so they wouldn't fear I was being mischievous. The bookstore has tall, thin cases which made me wish I could swing around the room on a rolling ladder and just read into eternity.


I was now in library mode and wanted to find more bookstores. We found the créme de la créme next at Kitchen Witch - a giant bookstore that only carries cookbooks! I wandered around all the dark corners of this bookstore for hours. They even had a sleeping puppy curled up in bed and kitchen witch dolls swinging from the ceiling. The store owner was very informative and gladly helped me research a cookbook that was sadly not in stock. I combed through the originals of Julia Child and many other rare cookbooks; it was amazing to get to hold and thumb through them in person.


After I'd had my fill, we set out to Quartermaster Deli at the edge of the French Quarter for lunch (looking at all those cookbooks sure made me hungry). The deli is hidden in the back of a convenience store, but they also are open 24/7 and have free delivery.


I ordered a turkey sandwich on wheat and had it toasted since it was still chilly. We sat down on some house steps across the street to enjoy our modest lunch. The sandwich was steamy and dripping with flavor. This is a favorite among the locals, and I would love to sample more from their menu.


After wiping the crumbs from our mouths, we ventured over to Dauphine Street Books.


The interior looked like they were playing jenga with the books in the mass of organized chaos. I leaned against a wall of books and got lost just skimming through several mystical varieties. The books put me in the mood for something more mysterious, and we next found the Boutique du Vampyer. Local artists have created art inspired by the popularity of vampires and we had fun musing through their selections.


We decided to rest before dinner and took a break in the late afternoon. Winding our way back through the streets I spotted a boutique, Just Dogs!, that carried gourmet treats for dogs and had to quickly run inside. I picked up a small variety of flavors for my dog to bring her back as a reward for behaving at the babysitters.


Another local favorite is Coop's Place. They have been rated as having the best jambalaya in New Orleans by several different sources, so we had to see for ourselves.


The all brick eatery was very charming and intimate, with soft lighting keeping the establishment aglow. We discovered just in time it is a sit yourself kind of place, while a line formed outside as we were getting comfortable.


We ordered a bowl of their famous Jambalaya Supreme to share before our entrées. This dish is prepared with a classic medley of vegetables and a smörgåsboard of meats: rabbit, sausage, tasso, shrimp, and crawfish. I gave them extra points for not bringing out the dish piping hot at an unpalatable temperature. The jambalaya arrived warm and fresh, at just the right temperature for us to enjoy immediately. It was well seasoned with a hint of tomato present with the other vegetables. We thought the meat was uniquely cooked separate from the vegetables and then blended together, since the meats retained so much flavor and were not soaked through. This was definitely the best jambalaya we've ever tasted (besides the one Guy makes).

Chicken Tchoupitoulas

Shrimp Creole

For our entrées, I ordered the Chicken Tchoupitoulas (chew-pit-two-lass) and Guy had the Shrimp Creole. Mine was a chicken breast smothered in cream sauce on a bed of perfectly cooked rice, and some shrimp and tasso thrown in for good measure. Tasso is small pieces of Cajun flavored pork shoulder butt, which has an intense pork flavor. The side of green beans smothered in a butter sauce still had a snap to them and tasted freshly picked, which was a bonus. The Shrimp Creole was shrimp, vegetables, and rice all cooked beautifully and tossed together. This dish had a more powerful sweet tomato flavor than the jambalaya which was lovely. Besides The Napoleon House, this was our best meal in New Orleans.


As a surprise at the end of our evening, a cat wandered over to our table. I had noticed the cat bed and dishes in the windowsill, but assumed the cat was off in the back somewhere sleeping for the night. I'm a huge animal lover, and thought it was pretty cool they allow their resident cat, Stella, to hang out with dinner guests. She let me pet her for a moment, and then I set her on the ledge to get a drink and quick snack. She then hopped down and went looking for other friends.


We went back to the hotel to change and then walked over to Hotel Monteleone for martinis at the famous Carousel Bar.


I was so excited to sit at a rotating bar. We had to wait for a few minutes for a seat to open up, but it wasn't long thankfully. In the adjoining room a pianist plays favorite songs as the ceiling has twinkling lights representing stars overhead, including some that flash like a shooting star.


I ordered a simple chocolate martini to enjoy as we went around in circles and relaxed while listening to conversation and catching a bit of the winter Olympics on small televisions around the room. The bartender was the best I'd ever seen and was a pleasure to watch whip up drinks all around the bar. I couldn't imagine all the hundreds of drinks he must have memorized. He never hesitated to any request made, including his ability to make well received recommendations. It was a pleasant way to end our second day.

New Orleans - Day One

As our belated Christmas present to each other, my fiancé and I spent a four day weekend in New Orleans, LA. We chose this city since it's only a quarter day's drive away and we wanted to be able to say we've been at least once before we move from the area. We were apprehensive about going since the atmosphere surrounding the city isn't a perfect personality match, but we decided to try anyway.

We left Thursday morning, after consoling my dog at the baby sitter's (I'd never left her anyway before and she had a rough first morning), and I was already looking forward to lunch. Pensacola, FL, was the halfway point on our trip, and it houses one of my favorite restaurants - McGuire's Irish Pub. Kylene introduced me to this local jewel when I accompanied her to second shoot a wedding last summer. I couldn't wait to show Guy.


The pub is quite large, but has a very small feel on the inside which makes you feel nestled. One of the first things you notice are the walls - they are covered in one dollar bills. The pub allows you to sign a dollar and staple it to the wall as a way of leaving your mark. We signed our names and I climbed on top of a chair and nailed it to the ceiling. The restaurant patrons clapped in approval as I climbed down.

We started with their famous senate bean soup. This simple soup, at only 18 cents a bowl, is the epitome of white bean soup. We scarfed it down so quickly, I have no evidence of its existence, but I promise it's worth finding.


Then came the entrees. McGuire's knows how to cook an authentic Irish meal. Last time I had the shepherd's pie, which was amazing. The meat was cooked to tender perfection, and the vegetables were left in large chunks to soak in the rich sauce. It's then topped with whipped potatoes, piped on in a wavy design, and finally baked all together.


This trip I chose the Irish steak and mushroom pie. They take the same tender meat and pair it with button mushrooms cooked in Cabernet wine. They are then covered with a puff pastry, with the shape of a clover cut in the middle, and baked until warm and flaky. The meal was so flavorful with the addition of the wine sauce, and deliciously filling.


Guy wisely chose the pot roast, which was their special. I kept sneaking bites of his tender meal and savoring the medley of flavors.


After we bid farewell to McGuire's, we soon found ourselves entering Louisiana. The coastal drive into Louisiana looked like the Florida panhandle, until we crossed the border. The sky was ominous as there was no mistaking you were entering the devil's playground. The clouds twisted in an unnatural manner and the sunlight begged to push through but was shoved backward at the first glimpse of hope.

I had been apprehensive to come to New Orleans. The gloom of the city was bleeding into my ever darkening mood. I had become coarse and protective before my feet had ever swept over the ground. The sky turns ever blacker as the city swallows you whole and you feel so insignificant. People line the streets like skeletons in limbo.

Canal Street appeared more civilized and we attempted to remain hopeful of good things to come. We arrived at the Hilton on Poydras Street and swiftly retreated to our room. Thankfully the hotel would remain our comfortable haven.


We ventured out into the city at dusk for dinner at The Napoleon House on Chartres Street. The house is over 200 years old and oozes with history. Nicholas Girod, mayor of New Orleans from 1812 to 1815, originally owned the house. In 1821, he offered Napoleon refuge. Even though Napoleon never set foot in the house, the name haunts the house still.


We were immediately sat at a lovely table by a street window. Images of what the street looked like at its conception and thoughts of the original inhabitants danced in our heads. The waiters were dressed in a classy attire of black slacks, white dress shirts, and black ties.


I ordered a Pimm's Cup to start, in a souvenir glass. This drink is claimed to be invented in 1840 by James Pimm of England. The drink was delicious and would be quite refreshing in warmer months. The smooth taste and finishing wisp of cucumber was delightful.

Reuben Sandwich

Organic Sandwich

Guy ordered a classic Reuben sandwich while I opted for the Organic sandwich. My sandwich was filled to the brim with huge slices of avocado, sprouts, juicy tomatoes, cream cheese, and balsamic-dijon vinaigrette all on toasted multi-grain bread. We enjoyed ourselves at this restaurant, and wish we could sample more from their menu.


After dinner, we clung tightly to our coats and walked over to the tip of Bourbon Street to try The Old Absinthe House. Erected in 1806, this building also has a rich history. The first story was converted into a saloon named "Aleix's Coffee House" in 1815. However, in 1874 the floor was renamed "The Absinthe Room" when the infamous drink, Absinthe House Frappe, was invented.


I chose this as my first drink. The licorice flavor was nearly overwhelming, but I unwisely endured. I rarely visit bars, but here enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and warm fire. The two female bartenders began to appear to glide across the floor, and I began to sway to the music that filled the air unwillingly.


My second, and final, drink was the Hurricane. I was not a fan of this drink, but I can offer some advice - if it begins to taste good, you're already in trouble.